The Rest of the Story -- Our Last Two Days in Jerusalem

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

The late news commentator Paul Harvey used to tantalize his audience with a "Stay tuned for the REST of the story . . ." Well, this blog is hardly tantalizing, but this trip does have an end, and a happy one at that, but between lack of availability of Internet, then computer, then exhaustion from the trip, etc. I realized I haven't shared our last couple of days in Jerusalem, and so what follows is our next-to-last day.

On Saturday we decided to return to the place where our trip began on Sunday -- to the top of the Mount of Olives. Although we had processed this route on Palm Sunday, most of the shrines and other places of interest were closed, and so we returned for a quieter, more thorough visit on this day. Our first stop was to a site sacred to both Christians and Muslims -- the Mosque / Church of the Ascension. Originally constructed in the year 380 CE as a chapel to commemorate Christ's Ascension, it was expanded by the Crusaders in the early part of the 12th century. The chapel became a Muslim shrine with the conquest of Saladin in the late 12th century, and it remains a mosque today. On the site is a stone said to contain the footprint of Jesus as he ascended into Heaven.

Nearby is the Church of the Pater Noster, built in the time of Constantine near the site thought to be that of Jesus' Ascension but by Crusader times known as the site where Jesus instructed his disciples with the words of the Lord's Prayer. On the site now stands a church and a Carmelite monastery built in the mid-19th century, and excavations begun in the early 20th century have revealed ruins of the earlier Byzantine church. There is a beautiful garden on the site, and it is famous for the tile panels that beautifully portray the Lord's Prayer in some 60 languages.

As we travelled down the steep, narrow and winding streets of the Via Dolorosa, we next arrived at the Dominus Flevit Chapel. The name means "the Lord wept" and is said to mark the approximate place where Jesus wept over the fate of Jerusalem: As he came near and saw the city, he wept over it, saying, ‘If you, even you, had only recognized on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. Indeed, the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up ramparts around you and surround you, and hem you in on every side. They will crush you to the ground, you and your children within you, and they will not leave within you one stone upon another; because you did not recognize the time of your visitation from God.’ (Luke 19:41-44). I am sure that still Jesus still weeps over the fate of this city. The church was built in the mid-1950s over the site of an earlier 7th century church, which in turn was built around a 5th century monastery. A particularly interesting characteristic is that centered in the view from the large, clear glass window behind the altar is the Dome of the Rock, the principal Muslim holy place in Jerusalem.

Following a visit to the Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which with its gold onion-shaped domes provides one of the most striking features of the panorama from the Old City, we then visited the Church of All Nations, also known as the Church of the Agony because it is built on the location where Jesus is believed to have prayed on the night before his crucifixion. Inside are some beautiful mosaics portraying scenes of Jesus' passion, and its 12 domes are decorated with the coats of arms of the 12 nations that contributed to its construction.

Right across the Via Dolorosa is the Tomb of the Virgin, believed to be the site where the disciples entombed Jesus' mother. One descends a long flight of steps to get to the outside of the building, and then another long flight of steps once inside. Along the way down are said to be tombs of Mary's parents. As with many sites in Jerusalem, this site has had a speckled history, changing hands -- and sometimes religions -- depending upon the identity of the last victorious invaders. Once one reaches the tomb below, one feels enveloped by icons and torches typical of Orthodox holy places, and religious services are still held here for Greek, Coptic, Armenian and other Orthodox Christians. It was dark and quiet, and Debbie and I spent some time here, in part to rest our tired bodies, but increasingly we realized because of the peace and beauty of the place, and the opportunity to reflect on Mary's total giving of herself to the service of God. Interestingly, this is also sacred space for Muslims, because Islamic tradition holds that Muhammad saw a light over the tomb of "his sister Mary" during his night journey to Jerusalem. Outside of the tomb is the Cave of Gethsemane, which tradition holds to be the place of Judas' betrayal of Jesus in the garden.

Having walked downhill, we now crossed the Kidron Valley, which separates the Old City from the Mount of Olives, and passed through the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where the Book of Joel and Jewish custom say the dead will be resurrected on the day of Judgment. Passing several tombs, including the Tomb of Zechariah, we then climbed uphill outside the city walls up toward the Zion Gate to visit the Church of St. Peter Galicantu. Although modern in construction (built in the 1930s and renovated in the 1990s) Debbie and I agreed that it was one of the most beautiful worship spaces we had visited. Looking across the Kidron Valley and the City of David (part of our excursion the next day), the church commemorates the site where Peter is said to have denied Jesus three times. There are two chapels, and the lower one is surrounded by outcroppings of rock from the time of Jesus and from later churches, and indeed there is a stairway and other artifacts that date back to Jesus' time. There are magnificent works of art and a wonderful sculpture that portray various aspects of Peter's life with Jesus and, in particular, his betrayal.

St. Peter's church closed a loop with other sites we had visited on Mount Zion, and so with that, we called it a day, and walked back through the Old City and to St. George's guesthouse to rest. Later that evening, we took a walk over the nearby Al Saladhin Street, a Palestinian commercial district, for what would be our most American meal of the two weeks: broasted chicken and home fries, cole slaw and a coke. At 50 sheckels, it was easily our cheapest dinner.

Tomorrow, I will share with you the mysteries of the City of David, and walking through a 2600 year old tunnel. Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Three Days at the Sea of Galilee

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Grace and peace to you from Jerusalem. We have returned from our trip up to the Galilee Region, a place which was central to Jesus ministry, but where we did not have access to the Internet. On Wednesday morning, summoning up all our courage, we rented a car for the trip. Since Jerusalem is about two hours away from the Sea of Galilee region, and there are so many Christian and other holy sites to see in that area, it didn't make sense to commute, so we took the plunge and rented a car. Picking up the car at 10 a.m., it was after 11 before we got out of Jerusalem. While Debbie and I are about to celebrate our 32nd wedding anniversary at the end of the month, let me just say it was tenuous at times during that hour. Once we found Road 1 (NOT Route 1, mind you) to Jericho, we were on our way. Highway 90 runs north-south from southern Israel past the Sea of Galilee up toward Lebanon and Syria, and takes you from well below sea level in the desert to sell above sea level in the verdant hills and valleys of northern Israel and the Golan Heights, with its abundant agricultural areas.

On our way to the Ein Gev kibbutz and resort area, we stopped in Nazareth. My sins of getting out of Jerusalem were at least partially redeemed by flawlessly making our way up to the site of the Basilica of the Annunciation, built in 1969 over the ruins of a former Byzantine church and a subsequent crusader church. The crypt underneath the basilica includes the Crypt of the Anunciation, where the Angel Gabriel is said to have appeared to the Virgin Mary. Up on top of the hill is the Church of St. Joseph, said to be the site of Joseph's workshop. We had a wonderful lunch at a brand new restaurant, The Red Burger, that despite the name has a wonderful, bountiful salad selection. From there we drove up to the Ein Gev resort, which is right on the east coast of the Sea of Galilee, in time for a walk along the beach and a buffet dinner on site.

Thursday started with breakfast at the resort followed by a bus tour of the kibbutz. The central notion of the kibbutz is shared life in community. In addition to the resort, the kibbutz raises dairy cows, horses, chickens, and ostriches, and grows figs, bananas, and olives among other crops. Following the tour, we then drove around the north end of the Sea of Galilee to visit a number of sites of historical and religious importance to Christians -- all within a few miles of each other. In Capernaum, we saw archaeological sites displaying part of a neighborhood dating to the time of Jesus' ministry, along with a church built over the spot that is said to be Simon Peter's home. There are also vestiges of a synagogue which date to the 4th century CE. Just south of Capernaum is the town of Tabkha, where we visited the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and the Fishes, the Church of the Primacy of Peter (a site where Jesus is believed to have appeard to the dicsiples after his resurrection) and, on a hill just behind that, the Church of the Beatitudes, where it is believed that Jesus delivered his Sermon on the Mount as recounted in the Gospel of Matthew. Our last stop of the day was a visit to the town of Tiberias (known to Christians not so much for the town but as an alternate name for the Sea of Galilee. Built originally by King Herod Antipas in honor of the emporor at the time, the town has become of Israel's holy cities, along with Jerusalem, Hebron and Safed. In Tiberias we visited the old city wall that dates back to the time of the Crusaders, along with the Tomb of Maimonaides, a famous Jewish philosopher, and the beautiful St. Peter's church, reflecting St. Peter's life as a fisherman, where we also attended the end of Mass. Returning to Ein Gev via the south of the sea, we ate dinner at the famous fish restaurant of the kibbutz, where we both feasted on what is known here as St. Peter's Fish (tilapia, which is native to the Sea of Galilee).

Friday was a travel day back to Jerusalem, but first we drove north to the city of Safed (known locally as Svat), a center of 16th century Jewish mysticism and now virtually entirely Jewish. The former Muslim section of the city has become a lively artists colony, and the city remains a center of Jewish learning. After touring the area, stopping at a local book shop and visiting a local synagogue, we had lunch and headed south through the center of Israel to visit Mount Tabor, about 8 miles west of Nazareth, built in the early 20th century to mark the site of the Transfiguration (Mark 9:9-15), built on the ruins of a 12th century muslim fortress. This is another site operated under the supervision of the Franciscan order and known collectively as the Protectorate of the Terra Sancta (Latin for "Holy Land"). It is an incredible ministry.

The trip to Galilee region ended very differently from its inauspicious beginning -- operating from maps and instinct, we arrived back at St. George's without so much as a wrong turn. Thanks be to God. Our several days in the Galilee region had so many moving moments that cannot be adequately captured here -- I am looking forward to sharing them with photographs and commentary at some future time.

Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Tuesday in Easter Week -- The West Bank, The Desert and Bethany

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Today we again traveled south, but this time to the due south of Jerusalem. We began by visiting the city of Hebron (which, despite the way newscasters say it in the states, is pronounced Hee-bron here). There has been significant tension in this city between the small Jewish community and the far larger Palestinian community, and Debbie and I would not have driven here ourselves with the safety of our driver. The city is known for its glass works and pottery making, which for many years was managed by one family. We visited the factory and purchased some samples of their work. We also visited the Haram al-Khalil Mosque -- a wonderful opportunity because mosques are frequently not open to non-Muslims in the present environment. Our driver arranged for our visit with a patriarch of the Mosque -- he is multilingual and has been offering tours here for 55 years! The spot -- which is divided between a Jewish synagogue and a Muslim mosque -- contains the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Sarah which are on display. It was a wonderful connection to our Christian patriarchal roots. It is here that our expensive camera decided to totally malfunction and so our pictures are not exactly what I would have wanted.

Our next stop was to The Herodian, one of the palaces that Herod the Great built for himself, about 7 miles southeast of Bethlehem. The circular hilltop palace was built in approximately 24-15 BC to celebrate his victory over Antigonus. Around the 5th century the site became a Christian monastery, so one can see Christian crosses intermingled with the Herodian ruins. Although it has long been claimed that the site contains Herod's tomb, there has been no hard evidence for this. \recent archaeological excavations, still underway, now indicate that indeed what appears to be Herod's tomb is located on part-way down on the northeast side of the palace site. There are amazing views from the top of the site, where one can see the fertile valley below gradually transition into the Judean desert. I realized at the top that I could take pictures with my cellphone, so we did salvage some grainy views of the site.

Armed with a disposable Kodak, our next stop was to visit the Franciscan chapel and monastery that mark the site where the shepherds are thought to have been keeping watch over their sheep when the star over Bethlehem appeared at Jesus' birth. It is a beautiful, quiet location with vineyards and beautiful gardens, and the artwork in the chapel evokes images of that pastoral scene. Outside is also a beautiful fountain of the Good Shepherd.

Our final stop of the day -- besides the ATM -- was to travel to Bethany, the site of so many social gatherings among Jesus and his friends, Martha, Mary and Lazarus. While the city is around 7 miles east of Jerusalem, it is about a 15-mile drive because of security walls erected between the two cities. There is a beautiful chapel that dates back to byzantine times, and a Crusaders' Chapel that dates about 400 years later. The complex is run by Franciscan monks, who, with a modest offering, were most helpful in guiding us around. On the grounds,below the Crusder chapel, is an ancient olive press. Around the corner from the chapel is the site of Lazarus' tomb, which is accessed by tortuously making one's way down a narrow flight of winding stone steps, and then crawling through a small passageway into the tomb itself. With God's help, my knees held out and I was able to make it into the tomb -- and I confess I was surprised at my own reaction to this very moving experience.

Tomorrow we leave for three days in the Galilee region where we will be staying at the Ein Gev kibbutz. As I am not sure what the computer arrangements are there, I may be incommunicado for the next several days. Will resume as able. Until then, the Lord bless you and keep you! Your brother in Christ, Don

East er Monday: West Bank and the Dead Sea

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Today we met our taxi driver, Mahmoud, who led us on our day's itinerary. Having spent all of last week, with the exception of a few hours, in and around Jerusalem, this week we are spreading our wings to other notable sites outside of the city. We started our tour this morning driving south along the western banks of the Dead Sea to Masada. This mountain fortress, originally constructed by King Herod before the birth of Christ but famous for being the last stand of the Jewish rebels in the revolt against the Romans around 73CE, stands some 1300 feet above the Dead Sea. While it is possible to hike up to the top, Debbie and I let better judgment prevail and we took the cable car up and back. The place is remarkably well preserved, and their are stunning views in all directions.

Next we drove north back along the coast to Qumran, the site where in 1947 a Bedouin boy searching for a lost sheep stumbled across a colossal discovery of scrolls, bound in clay jars, dating from the early 1st century and before. The were products of the Essenes, a very devout, ascetic and apocalyptic Jewish community. They lived according to community rules that are not unlike, at least conceptually, the rule of St. Benedict and other later monastic groups. The writings contain fragments of passages from Scripture and other period writings. There being no cable car here, we contented ourselves with visiting the remains found in the archaeological site at the foot of the cliffs and took photographs (at least I used the zoom lens!) to photograph the caves.

Following our visit to Qumran we had time for some recreational activity as we visited Kalie Beach at the very north end of the Dead Sea. Kalia is the newest resort beach to open on the Dead Sea, and is under Palestinian control. The Dead Sea is more than 1,300 feet below sea level, and is the lowest point on earth. While Debbie opted to forego the experience, I just had to take the opportunity to float on the Dead Sea (one does not swim there for reasons to be explained). The water is grey, not because it is dirty (well, I suppose in a way it is, literally) but because the water has such high mineral content that it cannot sustain life (thus, as you may have guessed by now, the name, Dead Sea.) Thus the bottom is this slimy, mucky substance that allegedly has healing characteristics. One could spend the day just watching people slipping and sliding in, as one second you can have a firm footing, and with the next step you are in a pool of the clay up to your knee. Debbie took a picture of me covered with the clay. But the most amazing experience is not being able to sink. If you venture out into water that is over your head, somewhere around the middle of your chest you reach a point of buoyancy at which you just don't sink any more. Similarly, unless you are standing perfectly straight and are intentional about that, the water automatically lifts you into a backstroke position. I stayed out in the water about 20 minutes before coming in because the sun was so strong today.

Our last destination for the day was at Jericho, the world oldest city, dating back almost 10,000 years. Here we ate at a restaurant belonging to one of Mahmoud's friends at the Mountain of Temptation (great name for a restaurant). Jericho is noteworthy for a number of reasons besides its age. It is the site where, according to the Book of Joshua in the Old Testament the Israelites entered into the promised land by taking the city. In the New Testament, this is the site at which Jesus fasted for 40 days and 40 nights following his baptism and is reported to have been tempted by Satan. A cable car runs up to a point just below the summit of the mountain, and the panorama below makes one especially appreciate the devil's final temptation to Jesus to be ruler of all of the world below. There is a monastery that was not open when we got to the top. The Arabic name for this place is Tel el Sultan, literally, "Sultan of Hell." At the base of the mountain is the Spring of Elisha (2 Kings 2:19-22) which has supplied Jericho with water for centuries:
19 Now the people of the city said to Elisha, ‘The location of this city is good, as my lord sees; but the water is bad, and the land is unfruitful.’ ²⁰He said, ‘Bring me a new bowl, and put salt in it.’ So they brought it to him. ²¹Then he went to the spring of water and threw the salt into it, and said, ‘Thus says the Lord, I have made this water wholesome; from now on neither death nor miscarriage shall come from it.’ ²²So the water has been wholesome to this day, according to the word that Elisha spoke.
Also at the base of the mountain we visited archaelogical excavations which, we are told, demonstrate the various stages of history of the place.

Between the sun, the warm, arid air, and all of the walking (even though we wimped out on the hiking), we are both exhausted. Happy we had another fabulous meal with Mahmoud, that is our main meal of the day, and we are now going to crash. Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Easter Sunday in Jerusalem

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Christ is Risen! The Lord is risen, indeed! Alleluia! Debbie and I send you warmest Easter wishes from Jerusalem. It is quite impossible to put into words what it is like to celebrate the Resurrection of our Lord less than a mile from where it actually occurred. I was there and knelt at the altar only yesterday. Perhaps symbolic of the way we, God's creatures, continue to break the Body of Christ was the fact that this very morning, friends who were at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher reported competing groups of Christians were arguing over who should be admitted into Mass and when. 2000 years later, we have yet to fully appreciate and make a part of us the meaning of the Resurrection and the Gospel message.

After a beautiful service at the Cathedral of St. George, Debbie and I were invited to lunch with Bishop Suheil and his family and staff, where the main course was an entire lamb. Debbie and I sat with the Dean of St. George's College and his wife, who is from California. We closed the luncheon by singing an Arabic hymn which we sang at the service this morning, and "Jesus Christ is Risen Today" which we also sang at the service this morning. The Dean then sang an Alleluia from the Byzantine church, and we closed with the Lord's prayer. It was a beautiful time of Christian fellowship.

Late this afternoon we traveled to Ramallah, in the Palestinian West Bank territory, with David Bourns and his successor at the Save the Children Federation's Palestinian Territory office. As Americans, we only hear about Ramallah when there has been violence there. Debbie and I were surprised to learn that it is one of the most secular of the West Bank cities, and has a thriving downtown with lots of new construction, shops, night clubs, cafes, and performing arts. Having said that, it continues to struggle with issues of poverty, unemployment, lack of economic opportunity, and to some extent, political isolation. It reinforced the truth that issues of ethnic and religious intolerance and the consequences of them have very real human and social costs, and continue to stand in the way of what we believe to be God's desire that all may be reconciled unto our Creator.

Having spent the afternoon in Ramallah, we spent the evening with our friends William and Tony, both of whom are from the UK and whom we have met at the Guesthouse. Together we went for supper to an Armenian pub in the Armenian/Christian Quarter of the Old City, and from there proceeded to the Western Wall, which was very busy due in part, we were told, to its being the middle of Passover. We prayed again at the Wall, and I placed a written prayer in a crack in the wall on behalf of a friend from Hartford. Praying at that Wall, so rich in history and meaning, was again a very moving experience.

I pray that you enjoyed a blessed Easter celebration, and that you approach the days to come with a renewed sense of faith and an invigorated commitment to be a living example, each and every day, of the Good News. Your brother in Christ, Don+

Holy Saturday in Jerusalem

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

The Lord is Risen! He is risen indeed! Alleluia!

Grace and Peace to you in the name of our Lord, Jesus Christ, on this glorious Easter Sunday. Yesterday, being Holy Saturday, was very quiet in Jerusalem as it was Jewish Sabbath during Pesach, and the in-between day for Christians, so the only ones going about their normal activities were the Muslims. Debbie and I went to breakfast with David and Ann Bourns, and then went to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. There we visited the spot on which Jesus was said to have been anointed with spices by Joseph of Arimethea and Niccodemus after being taken down from the cross; the spot where hs is said to have been crucified; the place of the tomb, and, on the reverse side of that, the altar of the Resurrection. It was quite a rushed visit, as, of course, if was the vigil of the Orthodox Palm Sunday, so it was quite crowded.
There is so much to write that I am afraid I cannot do it now, as there is a line waiting for the computer and we are in the midst of Easter Celebration. I will close for now, and wish you all a blessed and holy Easter observance. Your brother in Christ, Don+

Good Friday in Jerusalem 2009

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

From Jerusalem, Grace and peace to you in the name of our Lord, Jesus Christ.

Having closed last evening in the Garden of Gethsemane, this morning we arose at 5:30 a.m. to join the Cathedral clergy, parishioners and fellow pilgrims from around the world in walking the Stations of the Cross in the Old City. It was very chilly here in Jerusalem this morning -- not much warmer than in Hartford. We joined representatives from the Lutheran, Scottish and Reformed churches in a procession that weaved in and out of narrow alleys, stopping at stations that are permanently marked on walls, in small chapels and shrines, and at the entrances to churches. As we processed, clergy from all faiths led the traditional introduction to each station: We adore you, O Christ, and we bless you, with the congregational response, Because by your holy cross you have redeemed the world. We then heard salient passages from scripture, followed by intercessory prayers that evoked the spirit of what we were commemorating at the station. It was very moving and meaningful, to be sharing these moments with other members of the Body of Christ from around the world and from different faith traditions. This sense was even heightened by the ever-increasing presence of other groups making their own pilgrimages to these same stations either before or after our group.

We returned back to the Guesthouse for breakfast with a couple of friends we have met here at the guesthouse, and then a brief rest to catch up on some sleep before the Good Friday liturgy in the cathedral at noon. The service was very much like the Episcopal Rite II Goof Friday liturgy, except in Arabic and English. Following the liturgy, we were all invited to the Guesthouse for a Good Friday luncheon, before which the Dean invited me to offer the blessing. It was a wonderful privilege to offer thanks and bid God's blessing on the remarkable fellowship we shared around the Good Friday table.

I write this as our congregation of Trinity joins our sister parishes of Asylum Hill in the annual ecumenical Good Friday services. I wish all of those participating, and those who are unable to, every blessing on this Good Friday. May your journey be a witness to the power of the Gospel to heal, and not to separate. Faithfully, your brother in Christ, Don+

Maundy Thursday in Jerusalem

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Today all of the walking of the previous days caught up with me, and I woke up very late in the morning after more than 10 hours of sleep. Once outside the guesthouse, we discovered a small Palestinian coffee shop around the corner from the guesthouse, and the owner had just taken out of the oven some delightful pastries called baroka -- a salty cheese inside and poppy seeds on top -- and another style of kind of a turnover, some with cheese, some with prune, some with apple, some with poppy seed, some with chocolate. It is very difficult to stick to a gluten free diet here, and not having had any breakfast, popped a "gluten pill" and had one of the pastries with a Turkish coffee. We made small talk with the owner -- a man named Mohaned (not a typo) -- who shared that his parents live in Patterson, New Jersey, just a few miles from Debbie's parents.

We then ventured for the first time on our own into West Jerusalem to find the place we are to pick up our rental car next week, and to generally explore. As this is a largely Jewish section of town, virtually everything was closed, but we did get a view of the famous King David Hotel -- the best hotel in the city -- and the famed YMCA building, which has now been converted into a hotel. We had lunch at The Arches restaurant (a very different setting and menu for arches than we have in the states) and then walked back to the guesthouse in time to change our clothes and attend the Maundy Thursday service at the cathedral which started at 6 p.m. It was a beautiful, though rather simple, service, again offered in both Arabic and English. Typical of many American churches, the Cathedral of St. George had only a small part of the congregation come forward to have their feet washed by Bishop Dawani, who was suffering from a bad cold this evening. One of the highlights of the evening -- and something that can only be experienced here -- was the procession up to the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane. Overlooking the Old City, with the Dome of the Rock all lit up to our left, and the full Paschal Moon shining brightly behind us, we sang a hymn and took a long period for silent reflection. As we watched and prayed, one could hear the call of the muezzim from the mosque calling everyone to prayer. I was profoundly moved touching the rock wall underneath the cypress trees surrounding us. I couldn't help but think that all of these centuries later, Jesus is still weeping, over the continuing cruelty perpetrated by God's children against one another -- purportedly in the name of God. As I retire this evening, my prayer is more fervent than ever that God open our eyes to be more open to the wideness of God's mercy and presence in the world. With prayers for a blessed Good Friday, I remain, Faithfully in Christ, Don+

Wednesday in Holy Week

Don Hamer, Rector, is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. From April 4 to April 20, he is writing daily updates while he and his wife Debbie make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

Today was one of those days when our original plans didn't work out, but new opportunities presented themselves. Being the day before Passover, nearly everything around here shut down early today (think Christmas Eve!). We had walked an hour to visit the Dome of the Rock, only to be told by an Israeli Guard that it was being closed early. Then we walked down the hill to the City of David, to learn that the caves were being closed early and we would not have time to finish. Having walked about 23 hours during the past three days, we called a cab driver who had been recommended to us (and whom we had met on Palm Sunday) to bring us up to the top of the Mount of Olives so that we could work our way down, stopping along the way to a number of religious sites located on that route. Mahmoud confirmed our suspicion that many of the sites would be closed already or closing early. Paying attention to our tired feet, we took him up on his suggestion that he drive us to the West Bank to visit the City of Bethlehem. He suggested that he had a tour guide friend who would lead us through the Church of the Nativity, he would point out some of the sites, and bring us to a Palestinian restaurant. The Church of the Nativity is a beautiful building, that actually houses three separate worship spaces -- one Orthodox, one Armenian, and one Roman Catholic that is run by the Franciscan order. It is said that the church is built upon the site of Jesus' birth, and indeed in a crypt below all three worship spaces there is a small grotto marking the spot where Jesus is said to have been born. Whether or not one believes that this is indeed the exact spot, the prayers of centuries of Christian pilgrims has hallowed the space, and it was a moving time to stop and pray there.

Following our tour of Nativity, we then visited a shop that specializes in carved olive wood, where Debbie and I bought a few gifts and memorials of our trip to Bethlehem, and then we went along with Mahmoud to a wonderful Arab restaurant, where we were treated to a sumptuous feast of fresh vegetables, some in various middle eastern sauces, and topped off with a selection of three different types of lamb. We te for over an hour, but perhaps the best part of the time was our conversation with Mahmoud, who shared his story and that of his family. We talked about his three daughters, one of whom is now expecting his third grandchild -- and he is only 46. He is a Palestinian Muslim, but lives in Jerusalem, and so is free to navigate back and forth between the areas governed by the Palestinian Authority and Israel. It was very interesting to hear a perspective that few in America ever get to hear.

We arrived back at St. George's in time for Evening Prayer, and plan a quiet evening catching up on the news and trying to gain some physical stamina for the days ahead. Have a Blessed Day, and to our Jewish friends, Blessed Passover. Peace, Don+

A Day in the Jewish Quarter of Old Jerusalem

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences. He is posting daily until April 20 while he and his wife Debbie are on pilgrimage in the Holy Land.

Greetings from Jerusalem, where all the Jews and Christians are busily preparing for our "high" holy days. Today we spent most of our day in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City and one could sense the buildup of excitement as Passover approaches, families and friends are arriving from around the world and everyone is busy with the preparations.

Today Debbie and I got up bright and early and had breakfast with a friend from Great Britain whom we had met yesterday. We heard a fascinating story about his life as a young man growing up in Nigeria as his father was assigned there with the British military. At Yehezkel Landau's suggestion, I have wanted to go to the Western Wall to pray in the middle of the night, which is said to be a special time there. Tony and an Anglican priest who is here also on sabbatical, William, have agreed to make the trip with me. More to come on that. . .

We arrived at Damascus Gate to the Old City by 9:30, and our first stop was at the Wohl Archaeological Exhibit, which is a tour of ancient Jerusalem ruins dating back to the late Second Temple period (approx. 37 BCE to 70 CE). These ruins were not uncovered until after the 1967 war in which Israel re-occupied all of Jerusalem and resecured the Jewish Quarter. Most of this "upper city" area was occupied by families of important Jewish priests of other wealthy persons, and the ruins reflect a wealthy populsation with the means to expensively appoint large, well-constructed homes with frescoes, elaborate tile floors nd multiple ritual baths.

Next we walked down the street to the Ariel Center for Jerusalem in the First Temple Period. He we went back in history to the time of the first temple (around the 8th century BCE). An audiovisual display recounts the city's history from about 1000 BCE to 586 BCE, when the temple was destroyed and the city overrun. There were some fascinating exhibits from a secret archaeological dig that took place in the early 20th century.

After lunch at a burger joint where the hot item was a lamburger, we next visited four temples which had been constructed, and have since been restored, built for worship by Sephardic Jews. They date to the 17th century at a time when there was heavy immigration from Europe and, due to a modest working relationship with the Ottoman Empire, which controlled the area at the time, the need for more Temples. Each is unique in its own way, and beautifully appointed.

It was in visiting these temples and the ruins of another that the price of religious intolerance struck home the hardest. As one reviews the history of the City of Jerusalem, it has been forced to take on th character of the last victor on multiple occasions over many centuries. With each successive regime, there was a shift in religious acceptance and destruction of the previous places of worship in order to glorify the particular practice and belief of the victor. This has been true essentially throughout the history of Jerusalem. In the latest chapter of this story, the Jordanians held control of that part of Jerusalem after 1948, they made a point of desecrating and destroying many Jewish houses of worship. 'When the Israelis regained control of the area in 1967, they immediately set about to uncover remains of the 1st and 2nd Temple periods and to restore those places of religious significance that had been destroyed.

Our last stop of the day before dinner was to cross into the Armenian Quarter to tour the Temple of David, also known as The Citadel. Situated just inside the Jaffa Gate in the City Wall, much of it dates back to the 14th century, although excavations have revealed remains dating back to the 2nd century BCE and suggesting that there was a fortress here in the time of King Herod. This lends credence to the belief that this is the most likely site of the trial and sentencing of Jesus Christ. Historically, the most important part of this tour was the excellent and thorough review of the history of the City of Jerusalem over the course of three centuries. It reminds one that the present-day conflicts are not new, but rather the latest iteration of a centuries-old jousting for advantage among three faiths all of which claim unique rights to ownership of land that all agree really belongs to God.

Tonight we went out to dinner in West Jerusalem (we are staying in East Jerusalem) with David Bourns, the son of Courtney Bourns, formerly a Trinity parishioner and a lawyer who practices in Hartford. David is working as program chief in the West Bank office of Save the Children Federation, working to improve the lot of children living in that needy territory, and lives only several blocks from where we are staying. Aside from a good meal and a delightful evening of fellowship and conversation, it was good to hear of David's work and to get an insiders perspective on life here in this part of the world.

Tomorrow (if our legs are still connected to our hip sockets) we plan to tour the Dome of the Rock, the Mount of Olives, City of David and other sites just North and East of the Old City. Have a blessed day! Peace, Don+

Exploring the Old City

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences.

After our extensive walk yesterday, Debbie and I got somewhat of a later start today. Having to mail some letters, we found an Israeli post office just inside the Old City by the Jaffa Gate. The Old City, which is walled in, is divided into four quadrants: The Christian and Armenian Christian quadrants, the Jewish Quadrant, and the Muslim Quadrant. We took the rest of the day to wander around the Jewish Quarter. We specifically did not want to utilize the services of a tour guide, so we chalked up a lot of today to just getting to know the city a little bit. Unfortunately, we did that by wandering around in circles until our tour began to feel a little bit like the movie, Ground Hog Day, in which the same events keep happening over and over again. But our persistence has paid off in a sense of how one part of the city relates to the other, and so we now feel poised to begin afresh tomorrow, bright and early. We did get to visit several important sites today, including the place of King David's tomb, which, until the opening of the Western Wall for Jewish pilgrims, was the most holy and accessible site for Jews to pray. We also visited the site thought to be the location of the Last Supper which we Christians celebrate this week as Maundy Thursday. We then visited the Memorial to Holocaust victims -- a series of rooms each filled with original photographs, newspaper clippings, clothing and other articles. Particularly striking are the walls, each of which is lined with a marble plaque commemorating a city or village or other community that was wiped out by the Nazis and their collaborators. Many Jewish pilgrims come here to commemorate loved ones who were victims, and of course I entered with my recent experience of touring the American Memorial to the Holocaust in Washington, D.C. just several weeks ago. All of these sites are just outside of the Zion Gate, which was the site of fierce fighting in the 1967 war as Israeli troops attempted to gain access to the Old City, then held by the Jordanians. Huge gouges in the wall are the remaining evidence left by Israeli bullets and shells. Finally we went to the Western Wall, or Wailing Wall, which is the western-most foundation of the site of the Second Temple, destroyed around 70 CE. Since the 1967 war, this has been the holiest site where Jews come to offer prayer. It is common for pilgrims to tuck tiny pieces of paper containing petitions into cracks in the wall, and one can see thousands of such petitions in each space. According to Orthodox custom, men and women pray at separate sections of the wall, separated by a fence. It was a moving experience for both of us to pray there today. Tonight Debbie and I are so exhausted (we walked approximately 8 hours) that we have skipped dinner and are dining on some fresh fruit we bought outside of the Zion Gate of the city and some nuts we bought in the Palestinian section yesterday, along with some local Israeli wine. We are reflecting on our day, and all of the reminders that what is for us Americans often a theoretical or philosophical discussion is a part of daily life here. Perhaps that is the greatest lesson of our day today.
Know that we are praying for all of you at Trinity and all others who are reading these daily messages, as we hope that you are praying for us. Have a blessed day! Peace, Don+

We Walked Today Where Jesus Walked

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences.

"I walked today where Jesus walked . . ." begins an old hymn. Today, Debbie and I literally did that. Grace to you and peace in the name of our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ!

Today started with a trditional Palm Sunday blessing of the palms in the garden of the Cathedral of St. George here in Jerusalem, with the Rt. Rev. Suheil Dawani presiding. We each received a palm branch and an olive branch to hold and carry during the procession into the church. Holy Eucharist at the cathedral is celebrated in two languages -- English and Arabic -- much as is the prctice at the American churches in other non-English speaking countries. And we experienced one of the many blessings of being Anglican and part of a catholic -- universal -- church: Even the parts that were spoken in Arabic were meaningful, and one had the sense of praying in both languages.

Following the service was -- guess what? Coffee hour! There we met Bishop Dawani and brought him greetings from Bishop Smith and Kate. We also met other guests here at the Cathedral Guesthouse, and again, the wonder of having instant friends who are brothers and sisters in Christ was overwhelming. We met folks from California and a young woman working for Oxfam International who is Dutch but living in England.

Following lunch at a local sandwich shop, Debbie and I then took a cab across Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives for the start of the procession along the route that Jesus is said to have taken on his entry into Jerusalem on that first Palm Sunday. Palestinian boys were running around carrying large (4-foot) palm branches that one could bargain over, and after passing up a very small branch for a dollar, purchased one of the large ones for a dollar -- I am sure the boy still made a huge profit, but it was meaningful to have this enormous palm branch to wave in the air -- sometimes to the beat of praise songs being sung by a group of young people from South Korea. I struck up a conversation with one of the young men, and then joined him in the tenor part on several songs. Goes to show that every choir is always short of tenors!

I can't describe the amazing feeling to be in a throng of thousands of people from all over the world, all there for the purpose of retracing Jesus' steps and witnessing to the world, once again, the essential unity of the Body of Christ. It was as though they were proclaiming a solid "No" to the violence and tension that is a part of the daily life in this part of the world. Along with fellow pilgrims from all over the world, we walked down the steep and narrow alleyways down from the Mount of Olives and then up through St. Stephen's Gate (The Lion's Gate) into the Old City of Jerusalem. We took many photographs, but nothing can ever capture the experience of being part of that crowd -- much like, I imagine, the crowds that are said to have been a part of that original journey -- and experiencing the power of that time. I will attempt to upload some of our photos later.

One funny thing -- Debbie said I must have looked like the pilgrim poster child, as I was interviewed and filmed by both the AP News service on the Mount of Olives and again by another film crew that was on hand at the conclusion of the procession in the Old City. I'm afraid my words couldn'd exactly capture my feelings at the moment.

That is all for today. (I think that is quite enough for one day!) Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Our Pilgrimage Begins

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences.

Today is a travel day for us (as tomorrow will be as well). Frankie is driving us to Logan Airport about noon and our flight is scheduled to leave at 5:45. Scheduled arrival in Rome is 7:45 a.m. (1:45 EDT), with 2 hours to stretch before hopping on another plane for arrival in Tel Aviv scheduled at around 2:30 p.m. (6:30 a.m. EDT). From there it is about a 1/2 hour cab ride to St. George's Cathedral Guesthouse, where we will be staying for virtually our entire time in the Holy Land. Reading Enrique and Andrea's letter on the website made me realize what a miracle the Internet is -- how it allows us to stay in touch with friends and loved ones around the world. I am looking forward to sharing our experiences with you over these next couple of weeks. We will be holding you in our prayers during these holy days, and we ask that you hold us in your own.

Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Enrique Sepulveda and Andrea Dyrness

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences.


Today is the last day that Debbie and I have in the United States before we leave for our two-week pilgrimage to the Holy Land. It is only now sinking in that this is actually happening. The last several days have been taken up with communications between our contacts in the Holy Land, making last minute checks with family and others who depend upon us when we are home, and making sure all of the other details of normal life are attended to and brought up to date before we leave.


If you have not read it, I want to draw your attention to the wonderful letter sent to us by another pilgrim just to the right of this blog on the Trinity web page. Trinity members Enrique Sepulveda and his wife, Andrea Dyrness -- both college professors at St. Joseph's and Trinity, respectively -- along with their infant daughter Sofia Elena are on joint sabbatical doing ethnographic research in El Salvador. Enrique writes a fascinating article about their experiences, and sheds great insight into issues of the global economy, global poverty, and how America is sometimes understood by people in other countries. I highly recommend it to you.

And, by the way, did you notice the little Easter chick at the top of the Trinity home page? Thanks go to Trinity member and graphics designer Gary Holmes and the Trinity staff for their effort.

Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+

Encouragement from St. Paul

Don Hamer is on professional development leave until May 15. He is writing occasional posts to this blog to share some of his experiences.

Today's lesson from St. Paul's letter to the Romans sums up the importance of our reflections of the past two days -- of being open to the wonders that come by faith through God's grace, and of the importance of sharing those wonders with others. St. Paul asks today:
How are they to call on one in whom they have not believed? And how are they to believe in one of whom they have never heard? And how are they to hear without someone to proclaim him? And how are they to proclaim him unless they are sent? As it is written [in Isaiah] "How beautiful are the feet of those who bring good news!" Romans 10:14 ff.
Can you name one way in which God has touched your life today? Will you share that with one person for whom that "Good News" would be a blessing?
Have a blessed day! Your brother in Christ, Don+